Upstream Focus is Sourcing Journal's series of conversations with suppliers, associations and sourcing professionals to get their insights on the state of sourcing, innovations in manufacturing and how to improve operations. In this Q&A, Tayfun Akbay, chief commercial officer at Turkish denim manufacturer Isko, shares how the mill is working differently with its customers and why brands should avoid overextension.
What's the number one question you get from your clients now that was never really a consideration before?
One of the most common questions now is: "What can we bring to market quickly that's on-trend but also commercial?" The demand for speed is high, but so is the need to de-risk collections. Clients want fabrics that align with fast-moving trends -- like the resurgence of Y2K silhouettes or ultra-lightweight denim -- but without the gamble. Our role has evolved, and we're not just supplying fabrics; we're providing insight and guardrails that help clients move fast while still making smart bets. They're asking for partners who can offer not only great product but also strategic foresight, and Isko can provide this.
How do you evaluate potential brand and retail partners? What do you look for in a customer now, compared to a few years ago?
The fundamentals haven't changed! We've always looked to build strong, collaborative relationships with our customers. But what has changed is how those relationships function. A few years ago, it was common for us to be brought in later in the process: responding to a brief, fulfilling a fabric need. Now, we're increasingly involved much earlier, shaping that brief together. Today's customers are looking to us not just for product, but for insight: what's working in the market, what's scalable, what's compliant. The relationship has evolved from supplier to strategic partner, and that shift has made the collaboration more dynamic and ultimately more valuable for both sides.
What is the main thing brands and retailers could do (or stop doing) right now that would immediately improve product development?
Focus. The tendency to overextend, chasing every trend or trying to fill every gap, slows decision-making and dilutes brand identity. The most successful brands we work with are the ones who streamline, build from their core strengths and involve supply chain partners earlier in the process. That alignment shortens lead times and increases commercial success.