A simple pudding that is at once sharp, light and most comforting.

Cut ½ a lemon into thin slices and boil with a little water for 1-2 minutes. Drain and place the slices in a pan with the honey. Cook over a low heat for 5 minutes. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat together the butter, sugar and zest of the 3 remaining lemons until pale and fluffy. In a separate bowl, loosely beat the eggs. Slowly trickle the eggs into the butter and sugar mixture, beating continuously. Sieve over the flour and fold into the beaten butter. Add the milk until the batter is a dropping consistency.

Pour the syrupy lemons into the prepared pudding basin, then spoon over the batter.

Cut a large square of greaseproof paper and tin foil, making sure they overlap the edges of the basin by at least 4cm. Place the foil on the table and top with the sheet of baking paper, then fold a 2½cm pleat into the centre. Place on top of the basin, greaseproof-paper-side down, with the pleat across the middle and fasten tightly with a rubber band or string.

Half fill a large, deep pan with water and place an upturned heatproof plate in the bottom. Place the pan on the stove and, when the water is simmering, lower the wrapped pudding on to the centre of the plate. The water should reach the middle of the pudding basin.

Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and steam the pudding on a medium heat for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until a skewer poked into the centre comes out clean. Check on it as it cooks, topping up the water if need be. If you use the skewer test and it's not quite ready, make sure you reseal the top, covering the hole before continuing to cook; otherwise the sponge will become soggy from the steam.

Remove the pudding carefully from the pot and leave to stand for 10 minutes before unwrapping and turning out on to a warmed plate. Best served with cream, custard or both.